Ten New Zealanders got a unique opportunity to visit Chuxiong at the end of July and experience the Annual Torch Festival, the landscape and culinary delights of the Yi Minority Group there.
This came about as a result of an invitation from NZCFS, care of Simon Deng Li, our honorary patron, who suggested that a delegation from Chuxiong be allowed to visit here last April. The Chinese delegation enjoyed the visit so much that, at short notice, they extended a reciprocal invitation to Chuxiong for 10 members of the Society to make the return trip.
The 10 members hailed from various branches in New Zealand and some got a chance to get to know each other as they waited for the rest to arrive on their various flights.
The tour lasted five days and on arrival in Kunming, they were officially greeted by Mr Yin of the Yi Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan province. As part of the reciprocal agreement, the Tourist Department helped fund the China part of the trip. There are 9 million of the Yi ethnic minority and another 55 minority groups are recognised and supported/provided for by the Chinese Government.
Fortunately, member of NZCFS, David Burt, requested that a Chinese friend, who could speak very good English, be allowed to go along and she proved an asset to the whole group. They found Rita’s translating skills and friendly approach, an absolute treasure and she thoroughly enjoyed the experience of meeting so many kiwis altogether. Karim Dickie, another of the tourists on the trip, was charmed by the beautiful scenery, which he felt was reminiscent of New Zealand in some ways. He also said that a particular highlight for him was the spectacular Torch Festival and its related events such as the dancing and singing of the Yi people. Another attraction was the delicious mushrooms that grow in the area and featured in some of the meals they were given. “The best in Asia, for me, so far”, says Karim.
Liang Shih, another member, agreed that the local produce was very good, with the first dinner consisting of several varieties of wild mushrooms, fresh green vegetables, pickled vegetables, chicken soup, mountain goat meat and Yunnan ham. “The hosts were especially proud of one particular mushroom which is a favourite with the Japanese, called the ‘Miracle or Divine Mushroom’ as it was the only thing that survived and grew in the wasteland of Hiroshima post-atomic blast! Neighbouring province, Sichuan, influences the cuisine in Yunnan, and lots of chilli and Sichuan peppers are used. David Burt adds comments to Liang’s story: “The group was accommodated in a quality hotel in Chuxiong overlooking the city and, on the first day, we were given a delicious Chinese meal before going to a special performance by the Yi people at their new theatre and we enjoyed Yi songs and dances, the dancers wearing spectacular costumes. The costumes were beautifully hand-embroidered. The show was put on especially for them, sitting in the front row seats. After the show, many of the dancers came down to the visitors and garlanded some of the members, and presented them with little cups of wine before the grand finale.
The following days, which coincided with the Annual Torch Festival, found them entertained by traditional singing and dancing. One show included acrobats doing amazing leaps off swings and across the stage and the real Torch Festival began after the show when huge fires were lit, up and down the main street. Men in traditional costumes played a ukulele-like instrument, whereas the Yi women in their colourful costumes, formed rows and circles and kept dancing in step to the music by the menfolk. This is usually a part of a traditional courting opportunity. If a young man steals a young woman’s belt, she will let him keep it and not make another one. If she doesn’t like him, she ignores him and makes another belt to wear. Liang Shih, who explained this to your reporter, said he had an image of an unpopular guy having many belts and a popular girl making lots of belts!
The following day, after the usual speeches, they were invited to sit in a grandstand and watch an exhilarating fireworks display (loud bangs and coloured smoke, since it was daytime). This was followed by groups marching in, performing and marching out again and then later a delicious lunch of wild mushrooms and other local specialities. Then it was back to the Opera House. Everyone received a hand-embroidered satchel in traditional black with coloured motifs plus two sets of DVDs of the Yi orchestra performing in Taiwan in 2011 and the second set was a show called the ‘Sun Goddess’.
The next day, they visited the Jinsha river which divides Sichuan province from Yunnan and later visited Yuanmou County to see the Earth Forest. This consists of pillar-like formations of loose sandstone capped by harder rock and the site of Yuanmou Man, a 1.73 million-year-old fossil of early man. Dinosaur bones and ancient artefacts were of particular interest in the Yuanmou Man Museum, as well.
Zhengxu temples on Wuding mountain where features of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoist statues and couplets can be seen, surrounded by peaceful gardens, was beautiful to see and these were visited on their last morning.
During the course of the tour, they met with Chuxiong Tourism officials to discuss further possibilities for joint ventures between them and NZCFS and David Burt says that the trip was such an interesting one, that he hopes it might be the start of many visits of performing groups that might be arranged to help promote their culture here.
David also wishes to thank Mr Yin for his people’s hospitality and hopes that one day he may see him in New Zealand where he may hopefully experience the same hospitality from the kiwis. He has taught in China for 12 years and travelled extensively in China, but the Yi people and their hospitality will remain in his memory for many years.
Liang also stated that he enjoyed the trip and your reporter is particularly grateful to the three members above who contributed to the writing of this article.
Liang also wrote of his further travel experiences after leaving Chuxiong and readers can read it by clicking HERE.
Teri France, September, 2013
